Night-time heat

[rowan]

For nighttime heat, without the light, what do you guys suggest? I'm using now one that is, I guess you would consider Infared? It's like a red glow light, except with the heat & such xD But I don't think Onyx likes it too much. It keeps him at the right temps & everything--but since we're building a new enclosure, I want to get some heat emitters without the lights, if its possible.

I was just wondering what some of you would recommend :]
Thanks!

[glow=deeppink,2,300]Rowan[/glow]

[einstein]

For nighttime heat a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) like these store.everythingreptileinc.com/heatemitters.html works great. Those just put out heat - no light. They do get very very hot though and can cause very serious burns on you and/or your ig if touched even for a split second. They are also a fire hazard if not secured properly. I know - I had one fall on the floor and melt a hole in the rug in less than a minute. Good thing I was close by and investigated the strange smell.

I personally use the 150W Zoo Med brand with a "dimmable" clamp lamp so I can adjust the heat when I don't need the full 150W.

A safer option is this: www.reptileuv.com/megaray-hp-60-watt-heat-projector.php

Hope this helps to answer your question.

[Merlin]

I use ceramic heat emitters. But if your room doesn't drop below 72 degrees no night time heat is requirted.

[George-n-Me]

in the winter i keep my door closed and use a space heater near his cage, far enough away so he can reach it.

[prism_wolf]

As long as your temps don't go below 70 you don't even need to provide night heat...;-)

[rowan]

My house is always cold -_-; It annoys me, because I like very hot temperatures.
But thanks, everyone, I look on the links you all posted

[maccha]

Has anyone here tried the Mega Ray HP that einstein mentioned?

[prism_wolf]

I have the MR HP and have used it for several years as needed. It takes a little getting used to because the emitter doesn't swath the area with heat like a CHE so none is wasted. It's a much more focussed heat concentration.

[maccha]

Ive been thinking about ordering one to see if it would work for me.
Most of the time I want the heat from the CHE's to provide heat for the air as well as basking so there fairly efficient. During the summer is when I have more of a problem. The CHE's turn off when cage temps get high and thats fine. What I would like is to have the basking lamp be able to turn off when cage temp gets too warm and provide a basking temp that doesnt really heat the cage. Im wondering if the HP along with a florescent to boost the light levels would work. This would reduce my need for as much cooling, yes lol they do have A/C

[prism_wolf]

So are you saying that during the day you will want nothing but the fl. tubes and a heat source when the basking lights get too hot? You need the bright light emitting from the basking light to aid the eyes in properly contracting to keep the radiation from the UVB from entering the eye and damaging the cornea.

[maccha]

Not quite, I want the heat for the basking spot without heating the air in the cage. To protect the eyes I would use an additional florescent with no UV.

This could be an example:
If mid level cage temp is bellow 90 than reg bask light on
If mid level cage temp is above 90 than reg bask turns off and HP and additional florescent turn on.

Hope that makes more sense.

[prism_wolf]

The problem is with all fl. tubes. The lighting is not a bright daylight-type (sunshine) kind of bright. This still does not allow the eyes proper adjustment. I also use additionally two fl. tubes (6500K each) for the additional brightness...but when the basking light burns out (just had to replace one today) the area is very noticeably dimmer.

[maccha]

I was actually thinking of a compact around 2700K- 3000K as that would be much brighter. With a reflector they can be focused like a flood or a spot. I have 14W with 850 lumens, 15W with 900 lumens 20W with 1300 lumens and 40W with 2400 lumens. All of these put out more than enough to cause the pupils to constrict and protect the eyes, The later of the four they probably wouldnt like because its so bright. It would also put me back where I started with the heat anyways LOL. The UVs I use are also not to high as I prefer them to get most from the sun.

[prism_wolf]

Look...I have an idea. Let me aim you in the direction of the experts:
UVBMeter Owners Yahoo Group

These are the people who are making the reptile lighting industry pay attention to the quality of their products. These are the people who KNOW lighting and the best possible way to set up an iguana habitat for lighting and heat and how it will tie together best. It's certainly where I keep on top of the newest information in lighting comes from. These are people who are in R&D in the reptile industry. From the developer of the Mega Ray, the developer of the SolarMeter 6.2 UVB testing meter, to some of the reptile experts whose articles are found in medical periodicals, and those who keep up the UVGuide UK site...they're all there. They're very easy to ask questions of and give very easy to understand answers to the most novice keeper...to the scientific.

I think they can help you just fine.

You are making things too difficult for yourself. There's no need for all of that lighting all over the cage. Especially if it means you need an air conditioner for your ig...and your heat controls are not keeping up. Something is in serious need of revamping.

[maccha]

Sorry to waste your time, I was just wondering if the HP would make my setup more efficient. I have no problem maintaining temps as it is and none of the lights I mentioned are in the cage, there just sitting on a shelf. Thanks for the info on the meter owners group though.