Post by Tesa on Oct 20, 2003 4:26:59 GMT -8
UVB Lighting
If you live in an area where temperatures do not allow you to expose your iguana to natural sunlight, he will also need a special bulb that produces UVB rays (fake sunlight). UVB is necessary for iguanas to absorb calcium. There are several types of bulbs that emit UVB rays.
At present, the most esteemed is the Mega-Ray mercury vapor floodlight. The initial cost is around $85.00 (after shipping), replacement bulbs are only about half that price. These bulbs are guaranteed to produce more UVB for a much longer time period than any other bulb currently on the market. Mega-Rays can be purchased at www.reptileuv.com.
Until the release of the Mega-Ray floodlight, the most widely recommended UVB light was the Reptisun 5.0. These are fluorescent tubes that can be found at pet stores or ordered via internet.
A word of caution: Many people are misled by bulbs labeled as "Full Spectrum". These bulbs do not emit UVB.
HEAT:
Since iguanas are cold-blooded, they need to be able to move into warmer and cooler areas of their enclosures to regulate body temperature. This process is call thermo regulation. They need a basking spot with an optimal temperature in the mid 90's, along with cooler places ranging down to around 75 degrees. Heat can be provided using common household bulbs and should come from an overhead direction. In order to protect your animal, be sure it cannot come into direct contact with the heat source.
Just a quick note to re-emphasize why NOT to use heat rocks. These things are known to malfunction, causing temperatures to soar without your knowledge. Cold blooded animals do not sense heat in the same way that we are accustomed to thinking about. They recognize heat with a sort of "internal" thermometer (the temperature of their blood). By the time the heat travels through the iguanas bloodstream and alerts it to move away, severe damage may have already occured to skin and muscle tissue.
Fresh Burns
Scars
Thrasher's previous owners had a heat rock. After a year with me and numerous sheds, the evidence is still quite clear. She still has the scarring on the bottom of her foot.
(not to mention the dirty looking color she has on her entire underside.)
If you live in an area where temperatures do not allow you to expose your iguana to natural sunlight, he will also need a special bulb that produces UVB rays (fake sunlight). UVB is necessary for iguanas to absorb calcium. There are several types of bulbs that emit UVB rays.
At present, the most esteemed is the Mega-Ray mercury vapor floodlight. The initial cost is around $85.00 (after shipping), replacement bulbs are only about half that price. These bulbs are guaranteed to produce more UVB for a much longer time period than any other bulb currently on the market. Mega-Rays can be purchased at www.reptileuv.com.
Until the release of the Mega-Ray floodlight, the most widely recommended UVB light was the Reptisun 5.0. These are fluorescent tubes that can be found at pet stores or ordered via internet.
A word of caution: Many people are misled by bulbs labeled as "Full Spectrum". These bulbs do not emit UVB.
HEAT:
Since iguanas are cold-blooded, they need to be able to move into warmer and cooler areas of their enclosures to regulate body temperature. This process is call thermo regulation. They need a basking spot with an optimal temperature in the mid 90's, along with cooler places ranging down to around 75 degrees. Heat can be provided using common household bulbs and should come from an overhead direction. In order to protect your animal, be sure it cannot come into direct contact with the heat source.
Just a quick note to re-emphasize why NOT to use heat rocks. These things are known to malfunction, causing temperatures to soar without your knowledge. Cold blooded animals do not sense heat in the same way that we are accustomed to thinking about. They recognize heat with a sort of "internal" thermometer (the temperature of their blood). By the time the heat travels through the iguanas bloodstream and alerts it to move away, severe damage may have already occured to skin and muscle tissue.
Fresh Burns
Scars
Thrasher's previous owners had a heat rock. After a year with me and numerous sheds, the evidence is still quite clear. She still has the scarring on the bottom of her foot.
(not to mention the dirty looking color she has on her entire underside.)
