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Post by Dudley on Mar 25, 2004 21:20:46 GMT -8
How do you determine what wattage of CHE to purchase? I'm torn when it comes to this area as the place I've found them has them ranging from 50-200 watts I believe. I will be using it over an enclosure that is 2'Dx3'Wx6'H. Eventually I will be purchasing a thermostatic controller for it.
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Post by Tesa on Mar 25, 2004 21:24:38 GMT -8
Is the enclosure outdoors or in?
Will it be used for daytime or nighttime heat...or both?
and will it be used in conjunction with a heat bulb for daytime basking?
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Post by Lyn on Mar 26, 2004 5:18:46 GMT -8
Good questions Tesa, also you want the basking area to be 90 to 95 and the cooler zone somewhere in the high 70s to mid 80s...sometimes its trial and error to get the perfect setup for lights in a cage..a lot of times it gives a basic cage size on the CHE package...hope this helps...Lyn
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Post by prism_wolf on Mar 26, 2004 18:48:37 GMT -8
Though we all know igs should not be kept outside...  The trial and error can be a pain, but that's the wonderful thing about reciepts!! Keep 'em and return those that aren't strong enough until you find the right one. How large is your ig? 3' W is not very big. An igs cage should be at least another half again the total length of the ig...  (Just in case you didn't know) The full-size cage should be at least 6'W and 3'D. |
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Post by Tesa on Mar 26, 2004 19:54:25 GMT -8
well....we are talking about a "zoo" iguana in Texas.....so I was trying to get a feel of the setup before I started making suggestions. I dunno if it's in a reptile house ..or what.
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Post by Dudley on Mar 27, 2004 9:40:13 GMT -8
Right now the one at the zoo is not on display. He is in our clinic in a 6'Wx5'Hx4'D box.
The one I was going to get the CHE for is the one I'm bringing home. Right now from vent to nose this little guy is about 7 or 8 inches. He will be indoors, and I was hoping to use it with night time heating only.
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Post by Tesa on Mar 27, 2004 10:23:02 GMT -8
Frankly, chances are you won't even need heat at night. (unless you go crazy the air conditioner during summer) My girls temp runs about 70 at night without any added heat and she does just fine. Now I'm worried about your guy at the zoo. What kind of "box" are we talking about? Does he have heat and UVB?  |
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Post by Lyn on Mar 27, 2004 11:31:18 GMT -8
I agree with Tesa. I also dont use any heating units for night time...My house is set at 70 and they do just fine with it...One of my girls I have owned for over 6 yrs now...and she's no worse for wear....lol....Lyn
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Post by Dudley on Apr 1, 2004 21:55:43 GMT -8
Ok, so now I know that I don't really need heating at night since we stay between 70 and 73 at night in my house.
Tesa, the guy at the zoo is in a modified transport box used to move deer around the premesis (sp). We do not currently have a UVB bulb over him at the moment, however I take him for a walk every day for about an hour, so he gets about an hours worth of sunlight with a walk and he also has an outside basking cage that I try to put him in when we aren't completely overrun with school field trips. As for heat, this clinic is our reptile holding house for the moment. The city is planning on building a reptile exhibit this up coming month and then they will go up there. So, that being said, the temp in the building during the day is around 80-85, controlled with exhaust fans. To gain higher temps we use 20-80 watt bulbs depending on the target temp for certain animals. The iguana is under a 60 watt UVA and his temp went to 98 once, but I quickly cured that (the heater in the building started going burserk, and our sens-a-phone alerts us when the temp in the room gets over 94). Don't worry Tesa, I do the best I can do, I love these animals and won't let any mistreatment or harm come to them.
Clint
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Post by Tesa on Apr 2, 2004 4:56:15 GMT -8
Oh I wasn't worried about YOU loving them. That's obvious. It's just that I've heard so many stories of teachers, exhibits, etc where management, monetary, or lack of knowledge issues force the reptilian needs to the bottom of the priority list. The choice isn't always up to you. I couldn't help but be worried. Please don't take it personal. I'm SO glad to hear he's getting sun daily. That's better than an ole UVB tube anytime ;D |
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Post by Dudley on Apr 3, 2004 9:21:46 GMT -8
Like you said, the choices aren't all up to me, however, our facilities are going through a change. Many of the old thinkers that didn't want the town or the zoo to change and grow have been dealt with and fired or run off. So, now we are changing, and after all of that time of the zoo not really going any where we have enough money stored up for 7 large exhibits, animal enrichment needs, and other financial things for the next 20 years. So you're right, its not up to me, but for the moment we have the money and the will to do things right for a change. It has already been discussed that if things change I get to bring the ig home and deal with him as needed, but I think he's gonna have a good home with the zoo.
Clint
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Post by Tesa on Apr 3, 2004 9:50:33 GMT -8
Sounds great Clint! I'm glad you are on top of it! |
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Post by mar on Apr 4, 2004 9:41:27 GMT -8
Well one way of solving the wattage issue is to buy a thermostat. I have been using one for about 6 months now in Bob's cage and the temps have been great using a 100 W heat source.
I have an Alife thermostat with a probe on it. This is an analogue controller in an extension cord rated up to 1000 W indoor use with a probe out of it on about a 2 foot lead. I bought it for about $20US from LLLreptile.
This allows you to fully automate your cage heating and lights. Now when I over sleep all I have to do is feed Bob and sprint to class.
Mark
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(Just in case you didn't know) The full-size cage should be at least 6'W and 3'D.
