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Post by Tesa on Dec 1, 2004 16:32:20 GMT -8
A girl contacted me this morning via my personal email regarding her sick iguana. I am copy/pasting the correspondance so ya'll can add suggestions. Here's the first letter I received:
Hi I just joined iguana zone when searching for a way to diagnose my iguana's problem. I'm 14 years old and my mom, a teacher, bought an ig a few years back for her classroom. After about 2 weeks, she decided that the kids were tapping on the cage and bothering the iguana (Spike) too much. So she brought Spike home. However, Spike never seemed to get as big as most igs that we had seen pictures of and he (we aren't sure of the gender but we refer to Spike as a "him") wasn't eating as well as we thought he should be. Lately, Spike as almost completely stopped eating. He's become incredibly skinny and doesn't move very often- he just stays near the heat. His mouth has red stuff on it and it looks like scabbing but I can't be sure. Also, around his neck, there seems to be a swollen area. I'm very worried about him and I don't know what I can do to help him. I have been reading through the forums and you seem to be very knowlegeable. Any help would be greatly appreaciated as I'm not sure how much longer we'll have him. What would you suggest? Thanks, Deanna
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Post by Tesa on Dec 1, 2004 16:32:55 GMT -8
Hi Deanna. I am just making a guess from your description, however.... I'm sorry to say that it sounds as if Spike has MBD and possibly stomatitis. (mouth rot) He really needs to see a vet. Stomatitis is a symptom of a systemic infection and requires antibiotics. Metabolic Bone disease is also life threatening and it sounds as if he has it in the advanced stages. The only way to combat MBD is with calcium,UVB rays, and proper temperatures. If he has completely stopped eating, you (or mom) will have to force feed him by pureeing his food (like baby food) and giving it to him with a dropper or syringe. He may be too far gone to save, but if you are willing to try everyone at IZ will be glad to help. If you haven't posted there already, please do so. Other people may have more or better suggestions for you that I don't think of, and you will be able to get more in depth information. I need to know more about his cage, temperatures, diet, and lights before I can make any further suggestions. We need to go thru and correct anything in his housing that we can. I'll say a little prayer for Spike. Best wishes, --Tesa
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Post by Tesa on Dec 1, 2004 16:33:19 GMT -8
Well, I've been looking through your "iguana basics" today and it seems that we've been breaking just about every rule you have other than the "no meat" one. We generally feed him greens and peas but that's about it (occasionally we'll give him strawberries or bananas). I'm not sure of the exact temp. of his cage, but we keep our house pretty cool; around 65 degrees so I doubt that it's going to be much higher than that. He has a heating rock (oops) which he stays on almost all of the time. His cage is made out of wire and is not huge but isn't tiny either. I'll try to send pictures for you as soon as I can find out camera. We have him in our mudroom with our dogs which will probably change soon. We're planning on moving him upstairs to my parents' room where the dogs can't go. Also, would a regular vet be okay for Spike or would we need to look up a specialized reptilian vet? Thanks very much for you help. --Deanna
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Post by Tesa on Dec 1, 2004 16:35:15 GMT -8
Hi Deanna, I kinda figured his care wasn't as it should be. Most iguana owners don't realize that iguanas do have very special care requirements. You will need to act fast. Iguanas don't normally show signs of illness until they are VERY ill. You need to talk it over with your parents and see if they are willing to spend the money to get him set up properly. Temperature, lighting, and diet all work together and will be necessary if he is to survive. If not, I would suggest he be euthanized as death due to MBD is very painful. The MOST important thing you need to do for him right now is to purchase a UVB bulb. They are somewhat expensive, but absolutely necessary for his health. I would suggest a MegaRay bulb that can be purchased at reptileuv.tripod.com/megarayzoo.htm The total price (last I knew) was 85 dollars after shipping costs, and it should last a couple of years. You need to get his temps up immediately. You can use a standard household light bulb to heat his cage. He needs a basking spot under a light where the temperature reaches about 92 degrees at the PRECISE area his body is laying. (so try to get a thermometer in the very spot he lays.) Normally a 60-75 watt bulb will suffice. This basking spot should replace that heating rock. His illness is cause by a calcium deficiency. Their bodies cannot absorb calcium without the correct temps and UVB rays. What kind of greens have you been feeding him? Is he eating anything at all? IF he will eat, the best thing you can give him is collard greens. At this stage I would chop them up VERY small. The smaller they are, the more food he can fit into his belly.......hence more nutrition going in. (Collard greens are VERY high in calcium) If there is a pet store near you, it would be a great idea to get some calcium powder to supplement him for awhile. Let me know after you have talked to your parents, so I will know more how to help you. --Tesa
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Post by Tesa on Dec 1, 2004 16:35:43 GMT -8
Hi Tesa, The greens that we've been feeding Spike on a regular basis are colard greens, ocasionally mixed with turnip greens. We also have a 100 watt UVB bulb. Would you suggest one with higher watts? I just moved him up to my sister's old room where the temperature is much warmer and my mom said that we could go out and buy some calcium powder for him. I forgot to mention to you earlier that he's about 8 or 9 years old (if that makes a difference in anything). My parents said that they're probably not willing to pay for a large vet bill for him, especially around this time of year so do you know of any other way that we could possibly get antibiotics for his mouth? Also, I'm not exactly sure of how much Spike is eating on his own, if any, so I've been feeding him with a syringe like you suggested. Thank you so much for all of your help!!
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Post by Tesa on Dec 1, 2004 16:36:29 GMT -8
I have no idea how to get antibiotics for him without a prescription from a vet. I don't think it's possible. Its good that he has been getting collard greens. Thats probably what's kept him going this long. It may be possible that with the combination of age and bad health, he may just be near the end with no way to save him. About the UVB bulb. I'm afraid you may be mistaken. Manufacturers often label bulbs as "reptile bulbs" , "iguana lights", or "full spectrum" when in fact they don't produce any UVB rays. The spectrum refers to the visible/colored light that we can see. UVB rays are not visible to the human eye. Exactly what kind of bulb is it? If it's one of those kind that looks like a regular lightbulb but is colored, it's useless. :-( If you still have the packaging, check to see that it specifically says UVB rays (not simply UV) The age of the bulb also impacts it's efficiency. Would you mind if I copy/paste our emails onto Iguana Zone so that we can get some input from other people? Two (or more) heads are better than one. --Tesa ----- Original Message -----
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Post by Tesa on Dec 1, 2004 16:36:57 GMT -8
I don't mind a bit if you post them- go right ahead. I did what you said and unplugged Spike's heat rock and added overhead heating. I used a 100 watt lightbulb but the temperature is only about 85 or 86 degrees. I found the packaging for the UVB lightbulb. It's one of the lightbulbs that you described- the kind that looks like a regular lightbulb but is colored. This is what the box said: "Repta-Sun Incandescent reptile lighting Full- spectrum *Neodymium Daylight Bulb" and on the back it said: "Repta-Sun incandescent light bulbs provide the radiant heat (infrared light) that reptiles need................. The sun produces three primary types of light: ultraviolet, visible, and infrared. Ultraviolet (UV) light helps in regulating behavior and stimulating vitamin D production in reptiles. Visible light is the spectrum of light that allows humans and animals to see within our environment. Fluker's Repta-Sun 2.0 UVB and 5.0 UVB fluorescent light bulbs generate both UV and visible light and should be used in combination with the Repta-Sun incandescent light bulbs the mimic natural sunlight." Does this mean that our light is okay or should we still order a new one? I'm going to ask my parents about the antibiotics/vet visits again- just in case :-) --Deanna (P.S.- Pictures coming soon :-D)
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Post by WillemsMom on Dec 1, 2004 17:07:28 GMT -8
Deanna, I have just read all of Tesa's posts and yours. Poor Spike. I hope you can bring him back to health. I just had to feed my ig with a dropper. It worked quite well after I got the knack of it. If I can help you with that, let me know.
Clearly you are smart and trying hard to save Spike. Tesa has given you excellent advice. Move fast, Deanna. Spike sounds as if he's close to the end. Please do send pics and I'll say a prayer for him too.
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Post by dominick on Dec 1, 2004 17:20:20 GMT -8
It's not too late! Get the Mega-Ray, explain to ReptileUV (sellers of Mega-Ray) what you are up against and they will tailor a bulb just for Spike. He needs a good qualified herp vet for anti-biotics and Vitamin B injection. MBD attacks the nervous system as well and the B-vitamins will help counter that effect. At the very least, go to the drug store, get Vitamin B tablets, crush them up and get them in him whatever way you can. He needs Good, strong UVB, high calcium diet supplemented with calcium and Vitamin B and good heat. If you start making corrections quickly, he should respond enough to get his healing abilities jump started. Last option is euthanization. But I think you can bring him around with a little investment and the proper care. Good luck to you and let us know how things go. To find a qualified herp vet in your area go to: www.herpvetconnection.com or www.arav.org
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Post by IguanaKing on Dec 1, 2004 17:28:21 GMT -8
She contacted me also, here's what I have written to her so far:
================================ Well, from the symptoms you describe, I agree with Tesa. Can you post some pictures of your iguana in the "Injury & Illness" section, so we can look at them and maybe tell something from the pictures? How high is the cage temperature? The hot area should be no lower than 92 degrees. What brand of UVB lighting do you have? An iguana will get very sick if they don't have a good UVB light, UVB helps them make Vitamin D3 in their skin which allows them to make use of the calcium in their food. Please list EVERYTHING you have been feeding your iguana, the swollen neck suggests a possible thyroid problem which certain foods will cause. Try gently squeezing the lower jaw...does it feel soft or rubbery? Also, if you gently grab just the front corner of the dewlap (be very careful not to grab the dewlap by the tiny bone inside of it) you should be able to pull the iguana's mouth open so you can look inside. What color is it inside the mouth? It should be a nice pink color, if its pale and whitish in color your iguana is in serious trouble. In any case, aside from doing what I suggested and answering my questions about light, heat, and diet, you should take the iguana to a good reptile vet as soon as possible.
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Post by Merlin on Dec 2, 2004 5:23:35 GMT -8
I agree, This poor ig is in bad shape and desperately needs to see a vet pronto! I don't know of any other way to get antibiotics. For the cage, wrap it in plastic sheeting or a blanket it will help to bring the heat up. Also if you provide a basking area that is closer to the light it wil give him a place to warm up. Be sure on the temperature. Don't guess get a thermometer. If he isn't warm enough he can't digest his food. The bulb you are using supplies nothing but visible light and heat. No UVB what so ever. You can do the same thing with a regular houselhold light bulb and it is a lot cheaper. If you happen to live in an area where it is still warm (75-80F) taking him outside where he gets direct sunlight, not filtered thru glass or screen, will help as well.
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Post by guardsweetie08 on Dec 2, 2004 13:41:51 GMT -8
;DWow you guys are great! I'm happy to report that Spike ate a whole bowl of food on his own last night. He seems much more comfortable upstairs where is much warmer and he can be away from the dogs. Though we have yet to order the UVB bulb, we plan to in the very near future. Thanks for all of your advice and I'll be sure to keep you posted on Spike's condition.
--Deanna (A special thanks to Dom for the herp site... I'm looking up doctors near us now!)
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Post by dominick on Dec 2, 2004 14:15:09 GMT -8
Glad to hear he is eating Deanna.
Now, watch for poops. A healthy Ig should poop once a day. If no poop in 3 days, he needs emergency hydration via syringe. Ask, if necessary and we can walk you through it.
Hate to say this, but the UVB bulb is critical. So much so that I highly recommend that you run to a local pet store and buy (2) Iguanalight 5.0's 4' fluorescents and get them within 6-8" of the iguana.
Here's the thing: Pumping good food into the iguana is only half the battle. The UVB will help him properly metabolize the necessary vitamins in order to absorb the calcium from the digesting food. Otherwise it goes in the front and out the back.
I still recommend the Mega-Ray since he needs serious UVB. But, in the meantime, a good 4' fluorescent will help him out a LOT.
Good luck
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Post by Tesa on Dec 2, 2004 14:38:10 GMT -8
Hi hun, I totally agree with Dom. Spike needs that UVB or your efforts to feed and heat him will be pretty much useless. If you are confused about what to buy, write down the specifics from each tube and ask us here. We will let you know which one is right. Antibiotics aren't all that expensive. Hopefully mom and dad will be willing to pay for an office call... If so....you might also inquire about a fecal test to check for worms. It's GREAT to hear that he is eating! keep shoving those collards at him.
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Post by mar on Dec 2, 2004 15:33:13 GMT -8
Sample vet costs from my visit last Friday:
Exam and office fee: $30 Antibiotics: $24.50
The more good, specific questions you ask of the doc the more "bang" you will get for the buck. I have even brought notes with me so I don't forget to ask something and can jot down notes on the answer.
It can also help long term to keep a small notebook on your ig. List and date any weird behavior or observations you make. Some weigh their reptiles weekly which can also help identify trouble time. Paste diet and habitat notes in there too -- print out a diet list and notes about temps and such. (Ok, so this is an example of the documentation crazy engineer in me.)
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